Monmouth Times

Work is progressing nicely on our man's triple cape coat. We've sewn in both left and right support panels. Damage to both these areas was so extensive that these panels, of lightweight cotton flannel, will hold the tattered edges of the insect-damaged wool in place. And while we're working, we're also appreciating the many small construction details of the unknown tailor who produced this elegant garment. We've included two close-ups of the collar. In the first image, you'll see the underlining. Because of the damage to the velvet fabric, the inner stitching is clearly visible. Heavy waxed linen thread was worked in a herringbone pattern to hold the stiffened coarse buckram in place. On the underside of the collar, you can see the multiple stitches forming closely-spaced rows. There's a reason for this construction - it allowed the collar enough "body" to fold crisply and maintain the desired silhouette. And for those of you who enjoyed our "Julia's Wardrobe" series this past summer, Director of Collections Bernadette Rogoff will be presenting "Julia's Wardrobe" as February's Historically Speaking lecture, so be sure to visit our website for more details. 

Original source can be found here.