For this week’s Fashion Friday, let’s get up close and personal. I mean really up close! These are microscopic images of the fabrics used in our man’s triple cape coat. Textile conservation isn’t just about repair and stabilization. It’s also about purposefully looking at the garment – fabrics used, how it was made, and wear patterns that can tell us about who owned it and wore it. The coat is made from three of the “big four” fabrics available in the 18th century. At top left, the reddish brown cotton velvet fabric used for the collar and cuff trim show the fine and even threads woven to create this plush surface. You can also see where a good deal of the original “plush” has worn away. At top right we see the wool used for the coat itself. It’s been “fulled,” or processed after coming off the loom to shrink and tighten the fibers. This creates an almost waterproof surface – raindrops weren’t getting through that fabric! On the bottom left, the plain undyed or “natural” linen used for the sleeve linings. Notice how different the linen threads are from the cotton threads above it. And on the bottom right, the lovely green wool used for the torso lining. What a difference when compared to the tan wool above! The green wool was not fulled and retains its loose weave. It made for a warm yet breathable lining for the coat’s wearer. The fourth popular fabric of the 18th century was silk, which does not make an appearance in this coat. Cotton and linen are plant-based, while wool is protein (animal) based. That’s why clothes moths are attracted to wool but leave linen and cotton alone.
Original source can be found here.
